Embark on a hike through the historic village of Old Khndzoresk in Armenia, perched on the steep slopes of a breathtaking gorge. This remarkable site, fully inhabited during the 17th and 18th centuries with a population of over 8,000, offers a unique exploration of both natural and manmade caves. Until 1958, the village thrived with homes, schools, cheese factories, churches, and even a lively bar where villagers would gather in the evenings.
The History of Old Khndzoresk
Old Khndzoresk, a cave village in Armenia, is a place steeped in mystery and history. Though its exact founding date remains unclear, the first written mention dates back to the 13th century, with archaeological evidence suggesting the caves have been inhabited for over 1,000 years. The village’s unique architecture features caves stacked atop one another, forming a complex network where one person’s floor served as another’s roof.
Rising up to 25 meters (82 feet), these caves provided a natural defense against threats. In its prime, Old Khndzoresk was a bustling community. By 1913, the three-kilometre-long settlement was divided into nine districts, home to roughly 1,800 cave dwellings, 27 shops, and seven schools.
Unfortunately, the residents of Old Khndzoresk faced a variety of threats, both natural and human-made, which influenced their decision to live in the fortified caves. These included:
- Invasions and Military Conflicts: One of the most significant threats came from invading forces, particularly during the Ottoman Empire’s expansion. The caves provided a natural fortress, protecting the villagers from attacks and invasions.
- Natural Disasters: Earthquakes were a significant danger in the region, as evidenced by the devastating earthquake in 1930 that caused substantial damage to the village. Living in caves offered some protection, but the threat of cave-ins or rockslides remained a constant concern.
- Banditry and Local Conflicts: The region’s remote and rugged terrain made it susceptible to bandit raids. The elevation and structure of the caves provided a strategic advantage, allowing villagers to defend themselves more effectively against such threats.
- Wild Animals: In earlier centuries, wild animals posed a danger to the villagers. The caves, often high up and difficult to access, provided safety from predators.
- Harsh Weather: The caves offered shelter from the elements, protecting residents from extreme weather conditions like cold winters, heavy rains, and harsh winds.
Although the cave village protected its citizens for hundreds of years, tragedy struck in 1930 when a powerful earthquake hit the region, causing significant damage to the village. The earthquake further highlighted the precariousness of life in the caves, contributing to the Soviet government’s decision in the 1950s to relocate the residents.
By 1974, the last family had left the caves. Despite its abandonment, Old Khndzoresk stands as a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of its former inhabitants, echoing stories of survival, conflict, and community.
Myths and Legends
Old Khndzoresk, with its ancient caves and dramatic landscapes, is steeped in myths and legends that add to its allure. Here are some of the most intriguing stories associated with this historic village:
1. The Legend of Mkhitar Sparapet
One of the most famous legends associated with Old Khndzoresk involves Mkhitar Sparapet, a revered Armenian military commander. According to the legend, in 1730, Mkhitar Sparapet took refuge in Old Khndzoresk while fleeing from Ottoman forces. Fearing that his presence would lead to an Ottoman attack on the village, the locals reportedly killed him to protect themselves. This story is significant in Armenian history and is reflected in the stone tomb of Mkhitar Sparapet located near the village.
2. The Caves as Refuge for Rebels
Another popular legend suggests that during various historical conflicts, Old Khndzoresk served as a hidden refuge for rebels and outlaws. The complex network of caves and the village’s strategic location made it an ideal stronghold for those fleeing from authorities or enemies. The caves’ natural defenses and the village’s remote location provided a perfect sanctuary for those seeking safety from pursuit. The different revolutionary groups included the Armenian Revolutionary Federation (ARF), the Armenian National Congress (ANC), and the Armenakan Party.
3. The Enchanted Caves
Local folklore often describes the caves of Old Khndzoresk as enchanted or mystical. Some stories speak of hidden treasures or magical artifacts concealed within the caves, left behind by ancient inhabitants or by supernatural beings. These legends have fueled local curiosity and added an air of mystery to the already intriguing site.
4. The Ghosts of Old Khndzoresk
Like many ancient sites, Old Khndzoresk is said to be haunted by the spirits of its former inhabitants. Stories of ghostly apparitions and strange noises echo through the caves, especially in the quiet of the night. These tales are often passed down through generations, adding a supernatural layer to the historical narrative of the village. One particular story involves a ghostly figure that is said to appear near the entrance of a prominent cave during certain times of the year, particularly around dusk. This apparition is believed to be the spirit of a former resident or a victim of historical conflicts who perished in the village.
5. The Secret Tunnels
Some legends speak of secret tunnels hidden within the cave network, supposedly leading to distant places or other ancient sites. These tunnels are said to have been used for escape or secret meetings during times of conflict. While there is no concrete evidence of these tunnels, they continue to be a fascinating part of local lore.
These myths and legends enhance the rich tapestry of Old Khndzoresk’s history, making it not just a place of historical significance but also a site of enduring fascination and intrigue.
Exploring the Cave City of Old Khndzoresk
The most convenient way to reach Old Khndzoresk is by car. From Yerevan, the drive is approximately 250 kilometers (about 155 miles) and takes around four to five hours along some winding and bumpy roads, but there are many beautiful stops along the way. Some of the highlights along the route are Areni’s wine country, Noravank Monastery, and the Tatev Monastery and therefore turning the journey into a three or four-day trip will only enhance the visit even more.
Once you arrive in the village of Khndzoresk, you’ll need to cross a suspension bridge that spans the gorge to reach the Old Khndzoresk cave village. The bridge itself is an attraction, offering stunning views of the gorge and surrounding landscape, even if it is a little bit terrifying to cross! It was only erected in 2012, offering easy access between the old and the new parts of the town and therefore opening the world up to the opportunity to visit this fascinating place.
After crossing the bridge, a short hike down into the gorge will bring you to the cave village. The trails are well-marked.
You can, of course, join a guided tour from Yerevan or Goris and these tours often include transportation, a guide, and visits to other nearby attractions, but I always prefer to explore these gems alone!
So, Why Visit Old Khndzoresk?
The journey through Armenia’s countryside is epic and scenic, with views of rolling hills and rugged terrain, setting the stage for an incredible historical site to explore.
The adventure begins with crossing a suspension bridge that sways slightly over the gorge, offering breathtaking views of the cliffs and the network of caves carved into them. The bridge provides an excellent opportunity for photos and a chance to take in the panoramic scenery. Once you’ve crossed, you’ll start your descent into Old Khndzoresk. The path down is steep and uneven, so wearing sturdy, comfortable hiking footwear is essential.
As you explore the caves, you’ll notice the unique architectural layout, with some caves reaching up to 25 meters (82 feet) in height and stacked on top of each other. The narrow pathways and makeshift ladders connecting the caves reveal the ingenuity of the village’s design. Look for remnants of past life here, such as stone walls, wooden beams, and old doors, which offer a glimpse into how the village was once inhabited.
Although the caves are incredibly interesting, the surrounding scenery is equally as beautiful and impressive. The area might remind you of the “fairy chimneys” of Turkey‘s Cappadocia, but with way fewer tourists and commercialism. It is possible to walk around the area for hours and simply get lost in the caves, nature, and history.
Another significant highlight of your visit is the stone tomb of Mkhitar Sparapet, the prominent Armenian military leader who was killed here in 1730. His tomb is a poignant reminder of the historical events associated with Old Khndzoresk and provides a moment of reflection on the village’s past.
Overall, a visit to Old Khndzoresk offers an unforgettable glimpse into Armenia’s rich heritage. Whether you’re navigating the cave complex, enjoying the views from the suspension bridge, or reflecting at Mkhitar Sparapet’s tomb, the site provides a unique and enriching experience for anyone wanting to add this stop to their Armenian road trip itinerary!
